Now that everyone is aware of fast fashion, thrifting and second-hand shopping has become popular. According to RNZ, Second Hand Sales are at a record high - growing by half a billion, just this year. We get the idea - why buy new stuff when the stuff that’s already in rotation is still good?
While thrifting can be great for certain clothing pieces, we have some concerns. Is it contributing more to fast fashion? Are you really saving money buying second hand?
VINTAGE RESELLING HATE?
There is definitely a time and place for vintage re-sellers - in Aotearoa we have some great curated selections. A good ACG jacket that’s been well taken care of at The World is Omni in
Ponsonby is a great find.
But, there are vintage re-sellers, who don’t research their pieces and buy something “vintage looking” for $10, just to hike the price up to $60. Not only are you paying more cost-per-wear, but some people have argued that re-sellers contribute to hiking up op-shop prices. This prices out the lower-income people from purchasing good quality clothing, as some Op-shops have begun to invest in pricing “premium items” more accurately.
BUT IT’S EASIER ON MY WALLET...
Actually, it’s not. Stepping into any SaveMart lets you know this right off the bat - there’s a whole bunch of fast fashion clothing on their racks, and you’ll find the exact same crap in an outlet fast fashion store.
Nobody wanted to buy the stuff there either.
Looking at the cost-per-wear, a $5 t-shirt from SaveMart, which has already been used within an inch of it’s life will last (at most) 2-3 wears before it becomes a pyjama top. That’s $2.50 per wear. The average cost per wear from a fast-fashion outlet is $2 per wear.
ISN’T VINTAGE STUFF MADE BETTER THOUGH?
Not necessarily. Think about a pair of 90’s airmaxes - you’ll find some incredible deadstock shoe re-sellers whose catalogue include vintage shoes in unbelievable condition.
But deep within the sole of the shoe... it is dying.
A lot of shoe foams with Polyurethane foam mid-soles (PU) crumble if they’re stored in an area that’s humid - and unfortunately, the only recommended fix is to wear the sneaker. Air, moisture and temperature changes all contribute to the breakdown of shoe materials.
That’s not even including the wear and tear by someone who’s selling shoes they’ve actually worn. While a lot of the pioneering technology was made back in the day, the way we use that
technology, how we put it together, and even designing shoes that are better fits has come a long way since then. Sometimes, technological advancements are a good thing - especially if you’re
gonna wear it on your feet, every single day.
I STILL WANNA BUY VINTAGE. HOW DO I GET THE BEST BANG FOR MY BUCK
Going for vintage has more to do with wanting to invest in good quality older pieces, and finding the right place/ people to do it for you. And there are still some trade-offs.
Vintage Shopping is best for buying vintage jackets, denim, or hard and sturdy fabrics that can get better with age. It can also be great for buying one-off items made in a specific style/ time period that aren’t made like that any more. If you’re not interested in doing the research to find and invest in those items, then finding the right re-sellers is a great way to start.
Going vintage shopping in another country is also a great way to explore; Japan has a great thrift-shopping market because their items are so well-maintained.
At the end of the day, the important thing to understand is that you want to make an investment in something that’s higher quality or for a specific style/ reason. And, and even more important thing
to understand, is that at some point in time, that item may deteriorate faster than you expect.
If you’re willing to put the effort to maintain it and it’s worth it, that’s great! But, another great way to combat fast fashion is to invest in good quality pieces in the first place.
Who knows, once you donate that item, maybe that piece will get passed on to someone who will end up wearing it for years in to the future too.
