When shopping for a new wardrobe, it can be difficult to know what to invest in first - and to us, the answer is always pants. It might seem like tops are the more difficult thing to shop for; there are so many different fits (insert link here with our guide to different types of T-shirts), but people tend to be able to fit tops more similarly. Legs, are a different story - some are longer, some are shorter, and buying an unflattering pair of pants can throw off the rest of your body proportions.
Here’s our no-nonsense guide to buying a pair of pants that fit, and how to shop for pair that will work for you.
1. Understanding the Tag
Before you even start shopping, you’ll need a couple of measurements - your waist measurement, and the inner leg from your crotch to your ankle.
A lot of pants come with numbers like “34W 32L” - W stands for Waist, and L stands for Inseam Leg Length. This is the length of the pant leg measured from the crotch to the bottom of the pant leg. Taking (and knowing) both these measurements for yourself can be really helpful. The most important measurement in our perspective is the hip measurement. They’re more difficult to alter, and they are the first thing that becomes uncomfortable.
Knowing these measurements will help you sort through sizes that aren’t yours and save you time in the changing room.
2. Must-Haves
We reckon that there are two types of pants that everyone needs in their wardrobe, and investing in a good pair of each will save a lot of time and outfits.
- A Good Denim
- Classic Black Straight Cut Pants
- A pair of pants that re more experimental
DENIM
The original workwear fashion icon, Denim jeans were made because people working as miners and labourers needed long-lasting durable clothing. By the Levi Strauss & Jacob Davis created the first patented blue jeans, they had gained major popularity throughout the rest of the world.
Good jeans are made for use without wash - yes, even Levi’s CEO Chip Bergh has said that he avoids putting jeans in the wash, and suggests spot cleaning them, or washing them in the shower (we’re not doing that).
That advice alone tells you that it’s important to buy good quality; cause doing this with polyester would make your jeans smell terrible, and a menace on public transport.
When shopping for denim, our personal preferences are:
- Japanese Denim; usually, Japanese denim products are made with “Selvedge Denim”. Denim is made on shuttle looms, which tightly weave together the fabric. Selvedge Denim uses a slower, more traditional shuttle loom and have a unique self-finished edge. They prevent fraying, and have a higher density, heavier, and sturdier, which is why we love them.
- Look for the iconic coloured stripe on the cuff to tell you if it’s Japanese denim.
From there, you can choose which kind of denim you prefer, an indigo, light blue, or a dark blue. But denim goes with everything.
STRAIGHT CUT BLACK PANTS
There are a lot of different types of pant fits, but Straight-Fit means that the ankle of the pant isn’t narrow, and usually maintains a solid straight line from the hip to the knee to the ankle.
The general consensus is that Straight-Fit pants mostly suit people with few curves and men, because of the angular style. But the truth is everyone can benefit from owning a pair, it’s about finding the right pair for your.
Here’s a couple of tips:
- Look at the Waist Line; Higher waisted straight-fit pants can aid in bringing attention to the hips. Underneath the belly button waisted straight-fit pants can help balance out curves. For some men with long torso’s, having a higher waist can make your legs look longer, and they can help balance your silhouette.
- Go for Cotton-Twill; Cotton twill is a fabric known for it’s diagonal weave, making it super sturdy and long-wearing. Choosing fabrics made from Linen, Cotton, Wool, Nylon and Hemp will mean they’ll last for a long time.
Other things to ask your sales-person…
- Rip-Stop: this is a technique of weaving fabric together (Mostly used with nylon) that reinforces it and makes it more resistant to wear and tear. Manufacturers will interweave a stronger, thicker reinforcement yarn, often in a square cross-hatch pattern. Back in the days, it used to be pretty obvious to see a rip-stop fabric, and people thought they were a little ugly. Nowadays, rip-stop threads are way less obvious.
- Thread Count: this is the number of threads woven into a square inch of fabric. Not all fabrics are higher quality because they use higher thread-counts, but in the case of pants, it can definitely mean the brand is investing in better fabrics. Higher thread counts mean the fabric will pill less and is less likely to rip.
After you’ve sussed those two foundational pairs, you’ll feel way more at peace trying on a pair of pants that are a bit edgier! We leave the third pair for experimenting; maybe you always wanted to try a balloon pair of pants, or maybe you wanna go for (god forbid) a pair of skinny jeans.
3. Our #1 Non-Negotiable Rule:
YOU MUST TRY THE PANTS ON!!!!!
This is a non-negotiable for a reason! T-shirts, tops, jewellery, hell, even shoes, you can get away with ordering online and wearing them straight out the bag.
But not Pants.
It is so important to try pants on; just because they fit doesn’t mean they’ll work with your body type. Hell, even trying them on with shoes on makes a whole world of difference.
You have to try the pants on.
4. Spotting Sh*t Pairs of Pants
After knowing the above, it’ll be a lot easier to spot a sh*t pair of pants, but here are some tell tale signs anyway…
- The fabric is thin - especially with denims and pants that are supposed to be hard wearing. You shouldn’t be able to feel the wind through your denim. If it’s floppy, flimsy and light, it’s not gonna last. Denim especially is not supposed to be super breathable.
- Weird Stitching - If pockets are stitched on weird, or the stitches aren’t straight, then the piece is not gonna hold together very long. A lot of fast fashion brands use sewing method called “overlocking” - which creates neat edges on fabric quickly. It’s supposed to be used for finishing the seams (i.e stops fraying once the item is sewn together). It hides sewing flaws, and in some cases, brands will only use overlocking to put the piece together. Meaning your pants are being held together with hopes and dreams.
- Inconsistency - in a perfect world, the same pants, in different sizes, should have absolutely no inconsistencies outside of being a different size. So, a tell-tale sign of bad craftsmanship is major inconsistencies between pant sizes. If the pockets are different on another size, might be time to find a different store.
That’s our guide - have fun shopping!